With only 3 months to go in the Land Of Smiles, our time here is coming to an end. I’ve learned to take each day as it comes and appreciate the little things that are so different in this country than anything I'm used to. Of course, I’m somewhat used to them now and see myself as more of a “local” than a “tourist”. Alas, the finish line is in sight & I’m determined to soak in all the Thai culture I can.
Despite my eagerness to escape the “routine” of the American working man, I’ve fallen into a similar one here in Thailand. I’m training some of our outsourcing employees in India so that means I’m on the computer for around 6 hours daily. After a few hours of work each weekday morning, I escape the friendly, comfy confines of our apartment and wander around town in search of a local lunch.
Sometimes I go to more westernized restaurants, but usually I prefer the places where nobody speaks my language. Following the universal travelers tip, I stop in places that are busy. 2 reasons for this: 1) The food is probably really good and 2) Food doesn’t sit out long due to high turnover. While I love trying new spots, I can’t help but frequent some of my tried and true favorites. It’s always a unique experience and despite the many barriers, I always enjoy myself.
Today, while at one of these local spots, I get to know Isaan cooking. There are slips of paper on each table for me to write down what I want to eat. That’s not an option for me (speaking is hard enough – let alone reading!) so I am forced to gaze at what others are munching on and inquire on my own. Although I’ve never been to this Eastern Isaan region and regrettably probably won’t make it this trip, the influence of their cuisine on the country is undeniable. I order the Holy Trinity of Isaan food: Som Tam (Spicy Papaya Salad), Kai Yaang (Grilled Chicken) with a sweet spicy sauce and Khao Niaw (Sticky Rice). Such a delicious, bold yet delicate balance of flavor is difficult to come by back in the states. And I have learned to appreciate it for what is – distinctly Thai.
In the corner, a group of middle aged women chuckle at me for who knows what. I know they’re referring to me because in between their giggles is the word “farang” which I recognize as the Thai version of Gringo. I refuse to be intimidated or embarrassed. I’m an amusement to them and I’m proud of it!! I know I stand out in this foreign place. I don’t speak fluent Thai although I know many words. I sometimes catch on to bits & pieces of conversations around me, but I still stare blankly when someone asks me a question. Yet, I’m always able get by fine without much trouble. There definitely are road bumps but the rewards are worth it for sure.
Ordering is a challenge in its own right. Most places don’t have an English menu of course. Pictures would be nice but that’s a luxury that I often don’t have either. I’ve learned to swallow my pride and point at other people’s dishes as a last resort. That or practice the limited Thai I do know how to mutter: chicken, pork, fish, rice and the numerous Thai stir fries and soups is the extent of it. Luckily, a lot of places in town specialize in one or two things, so I don’t necessarily need to ask ‘what’s good here?’
There’s the Khao Man Gai Lady down the street who whips up delicious boiled chicken and rice smothered in a powerful spicy ginger sauce. She runs the operation out of her house and her juvenile daughter is often my waitress. I’ve learned there are actually 4 rice dishes on the menu – All under $1. The Chinese noodle & rice joint that roasts amazing crispy pork and duck. I always get a nice head nod and thank you from the man who chops the succulent meat. And then there’s the “Sour Puss Sisters” who we frequent for lunch for the best Khao Soi in town. The distinctly northern Thai noodle soup made by these mean mugging women is arguably my favorite food in this country – and yet it conjures up images of that memorable Seinfeld Soup Nazi episode. “No Soup for You!!!!”
Yes I know I’m a foreigner but I do not feel out of place here in Chiang Rai, Thailand. While I cannot connect on a verbal level with the locals, they at least recognize me and smile or give me a nod when they see me. I get a sense of comfort from this unspoken language. And they get a kick out of it when I do try to exercise my Thai skills! I now know that they’re as interested & curious about me as I am about them. I may not be Thai or fit in with the locals per se, but I am a familiar face and welcomed nonetheless and in this small town on the other side of the world - that suits me just fine.
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