Running Back in Time at the Old Airport

When we first moved to Chiang Rai, we knew we had to find someplace to run. The days of 24 hour fitness memberships, high-tech electronic treadmills & state of the art weight lifting equipment were temporarily over. Keeping active & in shape is a priority in our lives so we were determined to find a feasible alternative in this small town in Northern Thailand.

We heard from friends that lots of locals work out at an old airport. I didn't even know there was an old airport, so we headed out one day after work in search of it. Sure enough, hundreds of Thai people jogging & playing appeared before us. This old airport turned out to be just what we were looking for! And I do mean OLD. It seems like the place was just abandoned all of the sudden one day. All of the airport buildings are still there but now it looks like a ghost town - baggage claim, control tower and terminal still look like they're in working order. One day I even climbed to the top of the control tower to have a look for myself! The whole place is open for exploration although it's deteriorating from decades of abandonment. I felt like I had stepped back in time - straight to the 1970's. Probably due to the ever-growing population of the city, a new airport farther from town was built to satisfy the demand. Nevertheless, what's left now has been recycled for another purpose which may be just as important as the hordes of tourists flying into the city daily - exercise!

So Retro!

View from Traffic Control Tower

Daily Zumba Class

Everyday around 4PM, Thais get off work and head over to the old airport for activity. During the day it's simply too hot, so once dusk arrives, the people come out. Boy is there is a lot going on. Groups of old men in worn out Nike's and extremely short shorts gather round in a circle and kick a hollow wooden woven ball around. It's basically grown up hacky sack. These guys are at every day and they are incredible! There's no way I could hang with them even after 20 years of soccer! Speaking of, teams of boys are always playing soccer using vertical car tires as goals, young children fresh off school play badminton and countless men and women of all ages run & walk along the long since abandoned runway. As sunset arrives, a large gathering of women dance to upbeat techno music - Thai Zumba! Groups of golfers smack balls at the adjacent golf course right next to the pavement. It's really a fun atmosphere unique to Chiang Rai and we've become regulars at this gathering!

These Dudes are Amazing

Shirts vs. Skins

All told, the runway is a little over a mile long so it's easy to keep track of how long we've gone (since we count the lengths). We found a cool temple at the midway point. It's fairly typical of Thai temples actually, but has become special to us. Like most Thai Wats, there is a long staircase that leads up to the temple itself. We've spent many hours running up these stairs. There's nothing like pushing yourself on one last sprint flanked by rolling dragons with the odd monk sweeping the ground below (and catching a glimpse of us crazy farang). Of course, once at the top a lovely reward awaits. The temple grounds are serene & quite peaceful. The sun glimmers off the towering stupa as we stretch our weary muscles & struggle to catch our breath in the stifling humidity.

Temple At Top of Stairs

So Many Sprints Here

Golf Right Next to Runway

Running at the old airport will build up your confidence I guarantee it! We're usually the only ones running at a decent pace, so we end up passing scores of walkers and slow joggers. We really feel like accomplished athletes (actually it gives us the illusion that we're running faster than we actually are)! Some familiar faces smile when they see us while others just stare at the crazy farang that are "sprinting" past them.

"Fitting In"

There's a theme that I keep coming back to when I think about our time here in Chiang Rai: although we stand out and totally took out of place amongst the locals, we feel as though we have a place amongst them and are welcomed. Nowhere is this more prevalent than at an abandoned, old airport on our daily exercise routine. This genuine Thai acceptance from random strangers is something we'll miss dearly.

Monking Around

Young monks in procession at the White Temple in Chiang Rai.

Although the Thai constitution guarantees freedom of religion, about 94% of Thailand identifies with being Buddhist.  The King, by law, is required to be Buddhist, and sometimes the line between Church and State is blurred.  Signs of Buddhism are seen everywhere:  offerings left of the sidewalks, Buddhism classes taught at public schools, and most notably, the presence of monks around town.  Not a day goes by here that I don't see at least 1 monk walking in bright orange robes, with bald heads bobbing calmly down the sidewalk.  Monks can be seen in restaurants, collecting alms each morning, riding in tuk tuks and shopping for supplies for the temple.  They are held in a very high respect, and they are not allowed to come in contact with women.  Women will trade seats on the bus to avoid accidentally touching a monk's robe, and many people will stop and step aside on the sidewalk to squash any risk of brushing against a monk as they pass.  I immediately feel a need to slightly bow my head as I pass, and become acutely aware of my body language, attire and speech in their presence.  They invoke a sense of quiet and calm respect, and tend to zap any personality and spunk being shown at that very moment.  So having this air of stoicism and seriousness associated with them, it's always fun to see younger monks smiling and letting loose a bit.  They are, after all, human beings.

Monks shopping in town.  Photo credit: A. Zimmerman

On a recent trip to Chiang Mai while my bestie Alexandria was visiting (more on that later!) we did a temple walking tour, led by the ultimate tour guide, Scott Meslin.  Our last stop was one of my favorite temples in Chiang Mai:  Wat Phan Tao, a temple made from teak wood.  It's a beautiful temple, and has a pond, and several interesting buildings behind it to explore as well.  This last time proved to be highly entertaining.  As we walked around the side of the temple there was a large group of young monks standing around the pond.  I felt slightly uncomfortable as I thought they were getting ready to bathe in their bathing robes (yes, they have special bathing and swimming robes), but as we got closer we noticed an entirely different scenario.  All of a sudden a young monk yelped and started running toward the pond, lugging two squirming fish by their tails, and tossed them in the pond.  Then another monk followed, this time struggling to haul an entire plastic bag full of wriggling fish the the pond's edge.  He quickly dumped the fish over the side, with dirty pond water splashing his bare feet as the fish jumped around in their new environment.  This happened over and over, as each monk carried several live fish the the pond's edge, laughing and running, and gently deposited them into the water.  We learned that they had just finished cleaning the pond, before which they had to remove the fish, and were returning them to their home.  A memorable sight in itself, what will always stick in my mind was the laughter, joking and giddiness of the usually stoic monks, as they carry out their temple duties.  They are, after all, human beings!

A Weekend Away

Scott's seatmate.

Realizing that we have limited time here and our weekends are filling up fast, Scott and I decided to take a weekend getaway to the small town of Lampang.  Lampang, the capital of Lampang Province, is a city of just shy of 60,000 people, located about 140 miles south of Chiang Rai.  We got to the bus station after school on Friday, and hopped on a green, 1970's style bus with no AC and sticky vinyl seats, and started the 5 hour journey to Lampang.  Scott shared his seat with a stack of plastic stools that we weren't allowed to move, and about 45 minutes into the ride a man across the aisle from us started throwing up.  After 5 hours, two police checkpoints and a humorous lost in translation exchange with the ticket-taker, we finally arrived in Lampang and headed to our guesthouse.

We stayed at a hostel, which wasn't much more than someone's Thai style house set up to rent out, which is pretty common in smaller towns around the country.  We stayed right along the river which runs through the center of town.  We headed into downtown on Friday night in search of a pizza joint that Scott had read about, but unfortunately we didn't have our bearings or a map, so we ended up eating at a small local food court where Scott had what he said was the best Pad Krap Pao he's ever tasted.  Funny how well things work out sometimes.

Wat Phra That Lampang Luang

 The next day we rented a motorbike and drove about 20km outside the city to one of the main sights of Lampang: Wat Phra That Lampang Luang.  This wat was originally a fortress monestary, and actually saw battle in the 18th century when Burmese troops overtook the complex.  There are still bullet holes marked around the complex. 

As we were walking around admiring the ancient wooden structure covered in colorful murals, a Thai man approached us and ushered us back to the back part of the complex.  Concerned when we were getting too far behind, he hurriedly scampered about the complex pointing out different spots of interest.  He spoke very little English, so it wasn't a particularly informative tour, but he pointed out things that we probably wouldn't have noticed on our own.  He led us past the main stupa toward a small white building at the top of a set of stairs.  He motioned that I had to stay where I was, but led Scott up to the top of the stairs, inside the building and closed the door.  So...there I was, left in the sun to admire the main stupa by myself.  There are many temples in Thailand that have areas or buildings that women aren't allowed in, so I wasn't too surprised.  When the two of them emerged a few minutes later, our guide rushed us over to the next building.  I barely had a chance to ask Scott what he saw before we entered a small wooden temple structure with a huge dark door.  It was almost completely dark inside, except for a tiny hole carved in the wall, with the bright sunlight from outside streaming in.  The beam of light lands on a large piece of canvas stretched tight across a board, and on the canvas is a reflection of the main stupa outside.  I don't know how they do it, but it was awesome!  Scott said it was similar to the on in the "man building," only not quite as bright and detailed.  We turned to thank our tour guide, but he had gone, leaving us to marvel at the cool beam of light by ourselves.  On the way home I kept thinking about that little man that took us around, sharing with us the best parts of the temple, and asking nothing in return.  I will truly miss Thai people!

Cool reflection

Lampang was hot when we went.  I'm fairly sure I could have boiled an egg on the sidewalk.  Sightseeing is so much more exhausting when it's that hot out, and we were looking for a relaxing weekend, so we spent the rest of the day puttering around on the motorbike, hitting up a coffee shop for a while, and heading back to our wooden bungalow to rest.  Lampang doesn't have a whole lot to do and see, so we took advantage of our free time and just relaxed. 

Another wat we saw as we drove around town.

 
We ate a late lunch at a local favorite called Aroi 1 Baht.  "Aroi" mean delicious in Thai, and it was!  It had a huge menu offering traditional Thai dishes at very affordable prices (hence, 1 Baht.)  We munched on crispy fried fish, deep-fried mushrooms and another dish of fish bites, all washed down with some Thai whiskey.  Delicious!  We walked off our meal at the weekly walking market, before heading to the pizza joint that we had tried to find the night before.  Let me just say this:  Come to Thailand.  It's beautiful.  When you come to Thailand, come to Lampang.  When you stop in Lampang, EAT AT LONG JIM'S NEW YORK PIZZA.  It blew my mind.  By far the best Western food I've had in Thailand, and honestly, some of the best New York style pizza I've had, including in New York!  We stuffed ourselves on a large pizza with homemade Italian sausage and delicious cheeses.  Deciding that we weren't full enough, we added garlic bread and local beer.  To say we were content would be a grave understatement.  Despite the fact that there isn't a whole lot to do in Lampang, we would make the 5 hour journey back just for this pizza.  Yeah, it's that good.

Heaven?

All in all, it was a relaxing weekend with Sweets, topped off by the cutest tour guide and amazing food.  As our time here starts going by quickly and we get nearer to the end, I wish we had taken more weekend trips like this one:  no agenda or organized plan. Just wandering, sightseeing and mingling.

A lazy breakfast on the river.

Lunchtime Ramblings in the Rai

With only 3 months to go in the Land Of Smiles, our time here is coming to an end. I’ve learned to take each day as it comes and appreciate the little things that are so different in this country than anything I'm used to. Of course, I’m somewhat used to them now and see myself as more of a “local” than a “tourist”. Alas, the finish line is in sight & I’m determined to soak in all the Thai culture I can.

Despite my eagerness to escape the “routine” of the American working man, I’ve fallen into a similar one here in Thailand. I’m training some of our outsourcing employees in India so that means I’m on the computer for around 6 hours daily. After a few hours of work each weekday morning, I escape the friendly, comfy confines of our apartment and wander around town in search of a local lunch.
Sometimes I go to more westernized restaurants, but usually I prefer the places where nobody speaks my language. Following the universal travelers tip, I stop in places that are busy. 2 reasons for this: 1) The food is probably really good and 2) Food doesn’t sit out long due to high turnover. While I love trying new spots, I can’t help but frequent some of my tried and true favorites. It’s always a unique experience and despite the many barriers, I always enjoy myself.

Today, while at one of these local spots, I get to know Isaan cooking. There are slips of paper on each table for me to write down what I want to eat. That’s not an option for me (speaking is hard enough – let alone reading!) so I am forced to gaze at what others are munching on and inquire on my own. Although I’ve never been to this Eastern Isaan region and regrettably probably won’t make it this trip, the influence of their cuisine on the country is undeniable. I order the Holy Trinity of Isaan food: Som Tam (Spicy Papaya Salad), Kai Yaang (Grilled Chicken) with a sweet spicy sauce and Khao Niaw (Sticky Rice). Such a delicious, bold yet delicate balance of flavor is difficult to come by back in the states. And I have learned to appreciate it for what is – distinctly Thai.

In the corner, a group of middle aged women chuckle at me for who knows what. I know they’re referring to me because in between their giggles is the word “farang” which I recognize as the Thai version of Gringo. I refuse to be intimidated or embarrassed. I’m an amusement to them and I’m proud of it!! I know I stand out in this foreign place. I don’t speak fluent Thai although I know many words. I sometimes catch on to bits & pieces of conversations around me, but I still stare blankly when someone asks me a question. Yet, I’m always able get by fine without much trouble. There definitely are road bumps but the rewards are worth it for sure.

Ordering is a challenge in its own right. Most places don’t have an English menu of course. Pictures would be nice but that’s a luxury that I often don’t have either. I’ve learned to swallow my pride and point at other people’s dishes as a last resort. That or practice the limited Thai I do know how to mutter: chicken, pork, fish, rice and the numerous Thai stir fries and soups is the extent of it. Luckily, a lot of places in town specialize in one or two things, so I don’t necessarily need to ask ‘what’s good here?’

There’s the Khao Man Gai Lady down the street who whips up delicious boiled chicken and rice smothered in a powerful spicy ginger sauce. She runs the operation out of her house and her juvenile daughter is often my waitress. I’ve learned there are actually 4 rice dishes on the menu – All under $1. The Chinese noodle & rice joint that roasts amazing crispy pork and duck. I always get a nice head nod and thank you from the man who chops the succulent meat. And then there’s the “Sour Puss Sisters” who we frequent for lunch for the best Khao Soi in town. The distinctly northern Thai noodle soup made by these mean mugging women is arguably my favorite food in this country – and yet it conjures up images of that memorable Seinfeld Soup Nazi episode. “No Soup for You!!!!”

Yes I know I’m a foreigner but I do not feel out of place here in Chiang Rai, Thailand. While I cannot connect on a verbal level with the locals, they at least recognize me and smile or give me a nod when they see me. I get a sense of comfort from this unspoken language. And they get a kick out of it when I do try to exercise my Thai skills! I now know that they’re as interested & curious about me as I am about them. I may not be Thai or fit in with the locals per se, but I am a familiar face and welcomed nonetheless and in this small town on the other side of the world - that suits me just fine.