Chiang Rai Is Home

Wow I can’t believe we’ve already been here for 2 months! Time is absolutely flying. Seeing as we’ve been here for a little while now, I think it’s about time to give a little insight into the city we call home. Slowly, we have adapted to life in Chiang Rai. We are very grateful to end up in such a unique city.

Main Street

First, a little about the interesting history of Chiang Rai. Inhabited since the 7th century, Chiang Rai wasn’t established until 1262 when King Mengrai founded it as the 1st capital of the great Lanna Kingdom. Mengrai further expanded, conquering neighboring cities and eventually moving his capital to Chiang Mai (about 3 hours Southwest) which remains the Northern Capital to this day. Chiang Rai was conquered by Burma subsequently and remained under Burmese rule for 200 years. It wasn’t until 1786 that Chiang Rai was proclaimed a Thai Territory and in 1910, under the Rule of King Rama IV that it was declared a Province. There is evidence of this city’s past everywhere from the Lanna style temples, to King Mengrai Monuments to the Burmese influence on everyday life.

Kok River at Sunset

Chiang Rai Province is the Northernmost in Thailand. You can fly here in 1 and ½ hours from Bangkok, or take a 10 hour bus ride (overnight is quite comfortable actually). The scenery is spectacular. Rolling green mountains surround us here although the city itself lies on a fairly flat plateau.  We can drive 5 minutes outside of town and be completely lost in lush, forested mountain terrain. There are waterfalls, hot springs and secluded temples scattered throughout the region. Chiang Rai is on the Mae Kok river which is a tributary of the mighty Mekong (worlds 12th longest river) that flows through China, Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam. A quieter neighbor to Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai is one of the best spots to do trekking in Thailand. Most visitors stay for a few days and use the city as a base for exploring the neighboring mountains, jungles, hill tribes as well as Myanmar to the North and Laos to the East. Many people also come here to escape from the deafening heat of Southern Thailand. While I wouldn’t say it’s cold by any means (I am on a mission to wear sandals every single day this year!), it can get a bit chilly at night during the winter months.

Jody and I at a nearby Waterfall

The pace of life here is definitely slower and more relaxed. Nobody seems to be in a hurry and that’s taken a while to get used to coming from America. Most people here eat at least 6 times a day and their meals often consist of 2-3 hour family and friends affairs. (More on the food later) Thai’s have their priorities straight let me tell you! It’s inspiring sometimes to see the everyday value they place on interaction with loved ones and friends. There’s always time. They often say “Mai Pen Rai” (which means No Worries or Don’t Worry About it). I think this sums up the attitude well.

One of the most refreshing things I find about this city is that it hasn’t lost its small town charm. Around 200,000 people live here, so it’s by no means a small city. Yet, it has a small town feel to it. It’s stayed off the tourist radar for many years, the local people enjoying very leisurely development and mostly traditional, rural lifestyles. Until this day, entire clans live together in bamboo houses and each village has its own individual character. Not many people speak English in town and everybody is unbelievably nice and welcome. Little children often yell hello to us randomly on the street. Chiang Rai definitely has a charm to it that has gotten lost in many of Thailand’s cities such as Chiang Mai and Bangkok. That being said, the city is expanding rapidly and there are warning signs everywhere! A brand new western mall was constructed a few years back and there are buildings going up left and right. Trekking offices, brand new hotels and resorts, and restaurants/coffee houses are starting to cater more towards the tourist population. A highway is currently being built that will link the city directly to China (through Myanmar). This influx of influence and ease of transport will most definitely transform the town in the future.

Fresh veggies from the hilltribe vendors

I worry that 10 years from now, this small-town charm will be lost and there will be McDonald's and Starbucks littered throughout the ancient streets. In a way, it’s good that we get to experience life here before it becomes a modern metropolis. I wanted to absorb myself in traditional Thai culture and there isn’t any shortage of it here. We really enjoy exploring the old side-streets and posting up at noodle shacks for a quick snack. Or wandering the local daily market and buying fresh produce from the Akha hill tribe women who come down from their mountain villages to sell vegetables. There are night markets on Saturday and Sunday where tons of people come out to display their local crafts, food, dances, etc.

We love it here so far! Chiang Rai offers laid-back Northern Thai authenticity along with modern western comforts if we need them.  Come check it out for yourself and we'd be happy to show you how to live like a local!