White Temple & Black House

Yes! I made it to Heaven!

Despite being smack-dab in the middle of a mad rush of travelers going to and from Thailand, Laos and Burma, our city Chiang Rai is known for it's relaxed, local care-free feel. It really is a great place for backpackers to unwind from their busy traveling schedules around Asia. While there are numerous attractions within the city, no stay in Chiang Rai would be complete without a visit to two very distinctive spots just outside the city proper. We decided to check these two places out this last weekend and see what all the fuss was about. I'm talking about Wat Rong Khun (aka White Temple) and Baan Dam (aka Black House).

Jody & I at the White Temple

We left early in the morning via local bus (20 baht - around $0.60) and arrived 30 minutes later to Wat Rong Khun which is about 13km south of the city. The place is surreal. When they say 'White Temple' they really mean it. The entire complex is extraordinarily white and glistening from thousands and thousands of little mirrors (imported from Belgium apparently) that reflect sunlight and almost blind the eyes. It reminded me of an ornate wedding cake gone wrong. Entrance to the temple is free. It's the life's work of local artist Chaloemchai Khositpipat who started construction in 1997. Scheduled to take 90 years to complete and only partially finished, construction will continue decades after the artists death (similar to Gaudi's Sagrada Familia in Barcelona). Khositpipat has actually been called the Thai Gaudi. So, it's very unlike the thousands of ancient Wats in this country because it's contemporary. Still, the Buddhist site has already become a pilgrimage place for locals and tourists all over Asia - a testament to the artist no doubt.

Unfortunate Souls down in 'Hell'

You Shall Not Pass!!!

Surrounded by a pond with albino Koi Fish, the temple is filled with symbolism and contrast. It represents the path towards Heaven. Littered throughout the complex are temptations that the artist is warning those on the path towards Heaven about. There are ghastly monuments depicting the evils of drinking of smoking among other vices as well as eerie skulls hanging from trees nearby. Before we could enter the temple itself, we had to pass through the artists rendition of "Hell". There are two 'gatekeepers' passing judgement on all those who try to enter. We walked through a small walkway above a sea of desperate hands reaching out to grab us and drag us down to the depths below. Some of the hands were holding skulls and depicting faces of those that were distracted from the true path towards Heaven - thus never making it to paradise. Eerie and very cool.

Notice the snakes turned oil hoses strangling the towers - Symbolism is everywhere!

Once we overcame the temptations and made it to the temple, it didn't disappoint. It's clearly not finished yet, but one entire wall is complete. A huge mural depicting everything from Matrix to the Incredible Hulk. From the burning Twin Towers to Elvis. From Zinedine Zidane's famous headbutt in the 2006 World Cup to Angry Birds. Just a fascinating assortment of contemporary figures strewn together in a symbolic, mystifying way. I can't wait to see what it looks like when the temple is finished. The complex is much more than just one temple though. Unfinished buildings adorn the grounds and we weren't even able to go see most of it. We did get to use the most beautiful bathroom I've ever seen though. There were trees of glimmering trinkets that you could write a message on, and put on the tree. We wrote messages and left our permanent mark on the place. Ironically, right as we were done at the Temple, it started to pour. Maybe a sign of the upcoming Black House.

Entire Elephant Skeleton!

Me at the Black House

Strangely Beautiful

Skulls & Skins

After a long taxi ride (~24 kilometers to the other side of town), we arrived at the Black House. An entirely different world. It was like a bad dream. First off, the place is situated in the most unassuming area right in the middle of a neighborhood. Definitely off the beaten tourist track. Apparently, the artist Master Thawan Duchanee doesn't want to promote a visit to the Black House just yet. Construction has also been going on for over 30 years and it's a work in progress just like the White Temple. Each building of the compound is basically a display for the artists collection of skulls, hides, thrones, ornate woodcarvings, dark sculptures and many other items of devilish nature. Among the crazy things I found was an entire Elephant skeleton, two huge live pythons, an alien looking black house in the shape of a Pig (with what looked like a torture chamber inside), and hundreds of snake skins, shark teeth, weird taxidermy and water buffalo skulls. Contrasting with the lush forest and blue skies around it, the Black ominous structures were beautiful in their own weird way. Definitely a big contrast from the White Temple. The place isn't for the squeamish and even I felt a bit uneasy wandering around. I wouldn't want to be there at night! It was actually fitting seeing as it was Halloween time and nobody really celebrates that around here. The one thing I can say about Duchanee is that he certainly has his own unique, unusual style.

Thus concluded our tour of two of the most unusual, contrasting places I've ever been. Memorable to say the least and a must-see if you're around these parts! I'll leave you with a side by side of the two vastly different temples: