Loi Krathong

What a celebration last night! Unlike anything I've ever seen. Loi Krathong took place yesterday and Thailand was rockin! For those who don't know, Loi Krathong is on the evening of the full moon on the 12th month of the Thai lunar calendar (Usually in Late November). Originally the event was a Brahman festival to worship the Gods, but when the Thai people adopted Buddhism, they adapted the ceremony to honor the Buddhas. The floating of the Krathongs down the river is meant to worship the footprint of Buddha. 'Loi' means to float and 'Krathong' refers to the lotus shaped containers which float on the water.

Parade in the Rain :(

Gorgeous Banana Leaf float

What a beautiful tradition it is! We were contemplating traveling to Chiang Mai just for it because they're known to go all-out for the celebrations. In fact, we were just in Chiang Mai last weekend and all guesthouses were booked already for the festival! Unfortunately this year, Loi Krathong fell mid-week on a Wednesday so we stayed in Chiang Rai. You see, we had heard that Chiang Rai was mellow, laid back yet uniquely beautiful & serene during the festival.

All Dolled-Up!

First, there was a parade & we just had to check that out. Walking down the main street were beautiful, intricate floats and processions of musicians, flower ladies, traditional dancers & kids dressed to the max. Unfortunately, it started to rain, and then pour. I felt bad for everyone who spent so much time looking beautiful, only to get soaked.

Jody and I with our Krathong

After a lovely dinner on the river, we got to choose our Krathong. They were each beautifully decorated with biodegradable banana stalk weaving. Ours contained a few roses and other flowers. Each Krathong has a candle and some incense that you burn before letting it go into the river. The floating symbolizes letting go of one's hatred, anger and defilement's. As a symbol of letting go of these negative thoughts, we each placed a coin, a piece of our hair and a nail clipping in the small watercraft. We then each made a wish & pushed our Krathong out into the water, watching it bob and weave down the slow current, inevitably joining thousands of other Krathongs on a similar journey. It was very beautiful both to see and what it meant to us. Definitely a special moment for Jody and I to share together.

Making Wishes!

I think Loi Krathong is known more for it's floating lanterns, yet I just learned that this represents a completely different tradition. The Lanna festival known as Yi Peng just happens to coincide with Loi Krathong every year during the full moon of the 2nd month of the Lanna calender.  It is because of this Lanna tradition that lanterns are launched into the sky, resembling fluorescent jellyfish floating up to the heavens. It's celebrated mostly in the Northern and Northeastern part of the country. As I mentioned, the most elaborate celebrations are held in Chiang Mai (the ancient capital of the Lanna kingdom), but Chiang Rai does it big too!

We went down to the bridge over the river where all the commotion was happening & proceeded to buy our lanterns - 25 Baht Each. (about $1) All around us, people were setting off all shapes & sizes of fireworks, shooting flare guns, sending up lanterns, and sending off Krathongs! It was like we were in a war zone! Seriously, huge firecrackers going off right next to us. The combination of alcohol & dangerous fireworks must cause many serious injuries every year. Scary!

I'm not lying about a war-zone! (Notice the paramedics in the background)

We didn't exactly know how to send the lanterns off (there are some tricks BTW) but after some instruction we figured it out. We each held ours over the fuel cell and once it was lit, the resulting hot air got trapped within the paper. Eventually, with some the help of some local techniques, there was enough trapped air to lift the lantern into the sky. It was so beautiful to see our lanterns float up and away joining hundreds of others with the full moon in the background. We had to get another one and let it off together since we were now experts.


Loi Krathong in Thailand is just such a unique experience. Something I will never forget.

Day Trip in Northern Thailand

As most of you know, I decided to buy a motorbike here in Chiang Rai. It's really quite an experience that I'll dedicate another blog post to soon. Two weeks ago, Jody and I decided to tour the countryside around our city and make a little day trip up to the northern borders of Thailand. I really wanted to test out my new ride (outside the city limits) and what better way to do that then 3 hours of driving on the scenic highways.

Jody & I at the Teak Monastery

We woke up early and drove about 30 minutes north on Highway 1 to a town called Mae Chan. It's a very small town that serves mostly as a stopping point for treks to the far north. After a breakfast of chicken omelet over rice with chicken broth, we headed east for another 30 minutes or so to Chiang Saen. Built in the 7th century, it used to be one of the major cities of the Lanna Kingdom. The sleepy town is located right on the border of Laos and the Mekong River. Though it's now developed, ruins of the former kingdom are scattered everywhere, and it makes for an interesting place to spend a few hours. The walls of the old city are still visible (though crumbling) and we stopped at the beautiful Wat Pa Sak on our way into town. What remains of Wat Pa Sak also called the 'Teak Forest Monastery' is the beautiful ruins of 14th century monuments that are in the beautiful Chiang Saen architectural style. The main chedi shows elements of Lanna, Indian, Mon and Sukhothai styles. It's a mystic, peaceful place and we spent some time wandering around the complex.

Overlooking Chiang Saen, the Mekong & Laos

After driving through the town and stopping along the Mekong, we decided to head south 4 kilometers along the river to Wat Phra That Pha Ngao. After a steep drive up to the hilltop pagoda, we arrived at the temple. Boy does it has a great view! We could see Chiang Saen, the Mekong and off into Laos and even Myanmar in the distance. We chatted with the nicest monk for a few minutes and soaked up the view.

Golden Triangle - Meh

Lunch was approaching and it was time to make the 10 minute trek north to the Golden Triangle. Though the term applies to a much broader area, the point of reference is a small town called Sop Ruak where the Mekong and Ruak River's meet. When we arrived, there were endless guided bus tours each with loads of tourists, countless stalls selling the usual trinkets and just a sense of general chaos. A very different feel from sleepy Chiang Saen and the serene, scenic roads of the region we had been on all morning. We immediately knew that we weren't going to spend a lot of time at this place. There's a huge golden Buddha statue on the river and ornate Golden Triangle picture backdrops where everyone takes their cliche shots. I must say, it is cool to see three countries at one spot, though the place is a bit of a tourist trap overall. Myanmar, Laos and Thailand don't look all that much different. We ate lunch at a small shack overlooking the triangle and were off on our way to the Opium Museum.

The region has been synonymous with the Opium trade for decades. Only recently, has the drug industry been halted. The Hall of Opium is a gorgeous, modern museum created by the Royal Foundation dedicated to the history of opium and the impacts of illegal drugs. First, we went through a long dark hallway with terrifying sculptures on the walls. I think it's meant to display the contrasting effects of the drug. After all, the plant can be of great benefits to humans, yet cause considerable suffering as well. Then we went to a section on the cultivation of the poppy and the production in the Golden Triangle. After that came the development of the drug in the 18th and 19th centuries culminating in the Opium Wars between China and England. Then came the production, use & affects of legal opium throughout the region. Finally, the place left us with a summary of he effects of illegal drugs and really made an effort to inspire us. It really is a stunning museum that is a must-see if you're up visiting the Triangle. Unfortunately, they didn't allow photos inside the museum but I did manage to snap a few shots of the facility.

Really cool Hall of Opium Museum

One the road again. This time to the West for another 40 minutes to Mae Sai. It's the northernmost town in Thailand and sits right on the border with Myanmar (Tachileik city). We parked on the main drag and walked through the expansive markets. Mae Sai is really known for it's shopping as there's not much else to do there, but there is a cool temple up the hill overlooking the area. We climbed the hundreds of steps for the beautiful views off into Myanmar.

In Mae Sai Overlooking Myanmar

After taking in Mae Sai for a few hours, we decided to start the hour long journey down south on Highway 1 back to Chiang Rai. We actually made our own triangle in the route we took during the day and the bike held up quite well. I'm excited to do more day trips around this area. The province is so lush, the people are so nice, and we always have such a great time exploring. Until next time....

Eating at Damrong School

One of the things we were most looking forward to about coming to Thailand was the food, and we have not been disappointed!  We have tried new exotic foods, Northern Thai specialties and the good ol' Thai favorites like Pad Thai.  There are food stands all over the streets selling tons of good eats, as well as little hole-in-the-wall restaurants run by one or two women cooking away all day.  You can get food at any time of the day, which is perfect for my work schedule.  Some days I only have 50 minutes for lunch, which sounds like plenty of time, but when I have to walk to each spot it can go by fairly quickly.  However, I can always count on the English Department to have a huge spread of traditional Thai dishes in the back of the office, with everyone sitting around sharing a meal.  I think they're concerned that Ashley and I aren't getting enough to eat, because every time we walk in we are offered something to eat.  I usually just return from lunch when they call me over to eat more, whether it be soup, som tam (spicy papaya salad), fresh papaya or meat on a stick.  They know the way to my heart :)  Here are a few of my fellow teachers making delicious Thai eats!

Amp and Lula preparing Som Tam

Spicy Papaya Salad, Som Tam.  Aroi!!

The lunch spread:  thick soup, quail eggs, som tam and noodles.

Some of the English teachers enjoying lunch together.

Our Humble Abode

So we've been in country for almost a month now (Seems more like a week) and we've been in Chiang Rai for approximately 3 weeks. Since we're pretty much all settled into our new apartment, I figured I'd give a glimpse into our home here.

One of our friends had just extended her teaching contract for another semester when we arrived. This is the 2nd time she's extended her contract (much to the dismay of her mother). She really loves it here and she's the one who suggested an apartment not too far from Jody's school. It was very helpful information for us because we really didn't know where to begin with the house hunt. Surprisingly, the internet isn't the valuable resource it is in the states. Almost no-one has an online presence, and if they do, it's very outdated. So, we couldn't easily browse around and find a place on our own. We went to check out a recommended place a couple days after we first arrived. We didn't really know what we had in mind or what to expect although I needed a good internet connection and air-conditioning was a definite plus. After viewing the apartment, we knew our search had ended. This place was perfect for us.

Our Digs

Greeting us was the nicest Thai woman (the landlord) and she definitely gave us a great first impression. The apartment building is a little over half a mile South from Jody's school. She gets to work in 5 minutes on her bicycle. Located right off the main street where the Saturday Night market is, a little alley leads you past a nice hotel and some local houses to the apartment. It's a white 4 floor building with parking in the bottom.  It's one of the taller structures around which gives us quite the view from our 4th floor flat. I'd probably guess around 50 people live in the complex overall.

View from entrance

There is no elevator so we've had to get used to walking up 3 flights of stairs. (It's a good thing since we don't exercise nearly as much as we did back home anyways). They do have two washers on the ground level for clothes (although we need to air-dry). The interior is basic but includes everything we need. Not a huge place but big enough for us. Apparently, there aren't many 1 bedroom or 2 bedroom apartments in the city. Most units around are traditional Thai studios without A/C and without western accommodations. Chiang Rai isn't developed yet to the level that Chiang Mai or Bangkok is. I'll talk more about the city on a future blog post. A huge king-size bed greets you as you enter the apartment and a nice dresser against the wall as well. The place also came with a western refrigerator. The air conditioning unit is right above the bed and it really makes it comfortable (since hot air rises and all). I'd call it a studio and a half. Not quite a standard studio because we have a little niche where we've put our two big purchases:  1) fold out couch and 2) a dining table. So, we technically have a second bed for those who need a place to crash ;) We do also have great, reliable WIFI which was a big concern of mine.

Our "Dining Room/Living Room/2nd Bedroom"

The bathroom is fairly standard. Thankfully, it has a western-style toilet (no squatting for us) and toilet paper. We also have a water heater so we can take hot showers.

I think the thing that really sold it for me was the view. We have a little balcony overlooking the lush hills of Northern Thailand. It's very beautiful during the sunsets and you really see a long ways.

Evening from the balcony

How much per month for such a place you ask? The rent is 4000 baht (About $120). With added utilities it's about $140 overall. Definitely affordable by our standards. Now that we've been here for a few weeks, it's really starting to feel like home. We're excited to be grounded in Thailand and really look forward to our life here.

Beautiful view from our balcony of a nearby temple

Photoshop

Ashley and I went to get some photos taken for our work permits and Thai teaching licenses that are currently being processed.  Apparently the passport photos that we turned in were not acceptable, the wrong size, wrong colored background...whatever.  When we got to the store to get our photos, they ushered us into a backroom where we could "clean up" and do our make-up and hair before our photo shoot.  Well, we were on a time crunch between classes and super hungry for some lunch, so we didn't do a whole lot of "cleaning up."  Once we took the pictures they took us downstairs to wait while they were being processed.  But before they could print them, they went through the most extensive photoshop session I have ever seen for passport type photos.  First, they whitened our skin.  Why we need to look more white here of all places, I'm not sure.  Then, they put make-up on us in our photo.  I'm not complaining too much about this since they took away all the shine from my sweaty face.  They also added blush and lip tint.  Then came the weirdest part.  She literally spent nearly 10 solid minutes smoothing out and shaping our hair.  She "shaved" the sides and any irregularities, and colored in any parts where the background was showing through my wavy hair.  She made any highlights all uniform in color and then smoothed out the outline once again.  So weird!!  I had to take a picture - you can see her coloring in my hair.  After getting our prints, I look like a made-up, 12 year old version of myself...

A Kind Heart

We've been here for 3 weeks and I'm still blown away everyday by the kindness of the Thai people.  And it's not just toward us "farang" (white foreigners), they're kind to their fellow Thais as well.  It's really inspiring, and very different from other places where I've traveled where people have tried to scam travelers.  It may be the concept of karma, hoping that they will be rewarded in the afterlife, but either way Thai people are eager to help and expect nothing from you in return.  There have been several occasions in which we've gone out to eat at a small shack where no one has spoken English and the menus are all in Thai characters.  We've never experienced anyone getting frustrated or annoyed with our lack of Thai and our miscommunications.  Vendors are eager to help people load purchases and direct people to other stores if they need something else.  Today my friend Ashely asked a fellow teacher how to get to the bus station to catch her bus.  Instead of giving directions, the teacher thought nothing of taking time out of her day to drive Ashley to the bus station on her motorbike.  It seems almost silly as I write it, and I can't think of any stand-out examples, it's just everyday kindness that has really impressed me and made this place so wonderful!   It has been so easy to settle in here and become comfortable in our new surroundings, because that's how everyone wants us to feel.

White Temple & Black House

Yes! I made it to Heaven!

Despite being smack-dab in the middle of a mad rush of travelers going to and from Thailand, Laos and Burma, our city Chiang Rai is known for it's relaxed, local care-free feel. It really is a great place for backpackers to unwind from their busy traveling schedules around Asia. While there are numerous attractions within the city, no stay in Chiang Rai would be complete without a visit to two very distinctive spots just outside the city proper. We decided to check these two places out this last weekend and see what all the fuss was about. I'm talking about Wat Rong Khun (aka White Temple) and Baan Dam (aka Black House).

Jody & I at the White Temple

We left early in the morning via local bus (20 baht - around $0.60) and arrived 30 minutes later to Wat Rong Khun which is about 13km south of the city. The place is surreal. When they say 'White Temple' they really mean it. The entire complex is extraordinarily white and glistening from thousands and thousands of little mirrors (imported from Belgium apparently) that reflect sunlight and almost blind the eyes. It reminded me of an ornate wedding cake gone wrong. Entrance to the temple is free. It's the life's work of local artist Chaloemchai Khositpipat who started construction in 1997. Scheduled to take 90 years to complete and only partially finished, construction will continue decades after the artists death (similar to Gaudi's Sagrada Familia in Barcelona). Khositpipat has actually been called the Thai Gaudi. So, it's very unlike the thousands of ancient Wats in this country because it's contemporary. Still, the Buddhist site has already become a pilgrimage place for locals and tourists all over Asia - a testament to the artist no doubt.

Unfortunate Souls down in 'Hell'

You Shall Not Pass!!!

Surrounded by a pond with albino Koi Fish, the temple is filled with symbolism and contrast. It represents the path towards Heaven. Littered throughout the complex are temptations that the artist is warning those on the path towards Heaven about. There are ghastly monuments depicting the evils of drinking of smoking among other vices as well as eerie skulls hanging from trees nearby. Before we could enter the temple itself, we had to pass through the artists rendition of "Hell". There are two 'gatekeepers' passing judgement on all those who try to enter. We walked through a small walkway above a sea of desperate hands reaching out to grab us and drag us down to the depths below. Some of the hands were holding skulls and depicting faces of those that were distracted from the true path towards Heaven - thus never making it to paradise. Eerie and very cool.

Notice the snakes turned oil hoses strangling the towers - Symbolism is everywhere!

Once we overcame the temptations and made it to the temple, it didn't disappoint. It's clearly not finished yet, but one entire wall is complete. A huge mural depicting everything from Matrix to the Incredible Hulk. From the burning Twin Towers to Elvis. From Zinedine Zidane's famous headbutt in the 2006 World Cup to Angry Birds. Just a fascinating assortment of contemporary figures strewn together in a symbolic, mystifying way. I can't wait to see what it looks like when the temple is finished. The complex is much more than just one temple though. Unfinished buildings adorn the grounds and we weren't even able to go see most of it. We did get to use the most beautiful bathroom I've ever seen though. There were trees of glimmering trinkets that you could write a message on, and put on the tree. We wrote messages and left our permanent mark on the place. Ironically, right as we were done at the Temple, it started to pour. Maybe a sign of the upcoming Black House.

Entire Elephant Skeleton!

Me at the Black House

Strangely Beautiful

Skulls & Skins

After a long taxi ride (~24 kilometers to the other side of town), we arrived at the Black House. An entirely different world. It was like a bad dream. First off, the place is situated in the most unassuming area right in the middle of a neighborhood. Definitely off the beaten tourist track. Apparently, the artist Master Thawan Duchanee doesn't want to promote a visit to the Black House just yet. Construction has also been going on for over 30 years and it's a work in progress just like the White Temple. Each building of the compound is basically a display for the artists collection of skulls, hides, thrones, ornate woodcarvings, dark sculptures and many other items of devilish nature. Among the crazy things I found was an entire Elephant skeleton, two huge live pythons, an alien looking black house in the shape of a Pig (with what looked like a torture chamber inside), and hundreds of snake skins, shark teeth, weird taxidermy and water buffalo skulls. Contrasting with the lush forest and blue skies around it, the Black ominous structures were beautiful in their own weird way. Definitely a big contrast from the White Temple. The place isn't for the squeamish and even I felt a bit uneasy wandering around. I wouldn't want to be there at night! It was actually fitting seeing as it was Halloween time and nobody really celebrates that around here. The one thing I can say about Duchanee is that he certainly has his own unique, unusual style.

Thus concluded our tour of two of the most unusual, contrasting places I've ever been. Memorable to say the least and a must-see if you're around these parts! I'll leave you with a side by side of the two vastly different temples:

First Week Teaching at Damrong School

I survived my first week teaching!  It was exhausting, but exciting and humbling at the same time.  My students are amazing, and I'm learning as much from them as they are supposed to be learning from me.  The Thai education system is broken into Primary and Secondary, much like our school system in the US.  Primary covers K-6 and Secondary covers 7-12.  In Secondary, each grade level is called a Mathayom.  Mathayom 1 is equivalent to 7th grade, and Mathayom 6 is the last level, or our 12th grade. 
English hasn't been a huge priority in the Thai school system until recently, with the founding of the ASEAN Nations and the decision to use English as their official language.  The Association of South East Asian Nations is a union much like the EU and includes:  Myanmar, Bunai, Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Philippines, Singapore, Thailand and Vietnam.  Thailand is one of the few countries that has never been colonized, and thus has never had an English presence up until fairly recently.  The Thai government has placed a much higher priority on all children learning English so that Thais will not lose out on jobs when the ASEAN borders open up.
My school is huge - 2,900 students.  I teach 15 classes of 40 students...so around 600 students that I meet with each week.  14 of my classes meet once a week for 50 minutes and my specialized English Program (EP) class meets twice a week.  You can imagine that at 50 minutes once a week, it's pretty tough to get some of the information to stick!  I am in charge of teaching the entire 8th grade class, or Mathayom 2, and 3 12th grade classes, Mathayom 6.  It can be quite a challenge to get 40 kids to settle down and pay attention to a class that is not taught in a language they completely understand, but I have a Thai teacher help for a few of the classes.  My curriculum focuses on Listening and Speaking, so luckily I'm able to incorporate a lot of fun activities, dances, songs and video clips into my class.  Even if it takes me all year, I will curb my students' enthusiasm for Justin Beiber and Gangnam Style toward real music...
One huge difference that I notice right away with Thai students is their respect for teachers in general.  Thai society looks at teachers as second parents:  when you are at home, you learn from your parents.  When you're not at home you are most likely at school, and thus your teacher is like your second parent.  It is a huge honor and a profession that is taken quite seriously.  I wish that the United States held this profession in such a high regard.  My students bow, or wai, to me when they pass in the hall, and stand up when I enter or exit the room.  Every morning my class starts with the class leader saying, "Stand up please."  The whole class stands, and in unison says, "Good Morning Teacher."  They will remain standing until I tell them to take their seats (something I discovered the first day when no one sat down.)  Class ends with the class saying, "Thank you Teacher.  See you again next time!"   If I am sitting at my desk in my office and a student comes to talk to me, they will kneel or squat on the ground, because they should never stand higher or be at a higher level than their teachers.  Yesterday a group of students came to the English Department office to ask their teacher a question.  They stood around his desk and as they were conversing, the English Department Head came into the office and told them all to walk out, walk back in and sit on the ground to show their teacher respect.  "You are not higher than your teacher.  Show respect to your teacher," he said.  I've seen several of my students outside of class, and the same level of respect is shown to me then.  It shows how much importance is placed on learning and education. 
This week will start my second full week, although 2 days of classes are cancelled for Sports Day, which includes students competing on various teams in soccer, basketball, volleyball and dance.  The marching band will perform and the whole school treks to the local stadium to celebrate the start of the new semester.  I will have lots of pictures and stories to post then!

Each morning the students gather and sit on the court for morning assembly.  The National Anthem is sung, a Buddhist prayer is said, and the Director goes over morning announcements.

My school has 5 buildings surrounding 2 large sport courts and open courtyards.  At lunch and after class these areas are filled with badminton (which is huge here!!), soccer, basketball, volleyball and dance.  There are areas inside for weightlifting and table tennis.

This is my office!  The English Department consists of 35 teachers, 7 of whom are foreign teachers.  I have access to as many photocopies as I need (a HUGE luxury in Thai public schools because of budgets) scanner, computers, cd players and multimedia equipment.