5 Days in Bangkok - What I Ate

Last week I went to Bangkok in order to secure our Vietnam visa's for our upcoming trip. I was there for 5 delicious days with Jody meeting up with me on the weekend. I had some awesome food & explored some very cool neighborhoods. Here is what I tried:

The first night I went to one of Bangkok's best street food areas: Sukhumvit Soi 38. They have all the Thai specialties but I went with a wonton noodle soup. It's the quintessential Asian street food experience sitting out on the road on plastic stools & devouring freshly made local cuisine. So good!

Killer Wonton Soup with BBQ Pork & Crab

I had a taste of Britain for lunch the following day at a pie shop down the street from my hotel called the Witch Pie Factory off Sukhumvit 65. I haven't had mashed potatoes for a year so I opted for the Shepherds pie with more buttery mashed potatoes & onion gravy! They have all kinds of meat pies, quiches & even scotch eggs (a British specialty that I've tried from a friend in Chiang Rai).

Taste of England in BKK

That evening I wandered around Bangkok's impressive Chinatown. I love this area because it's always throbbing with energy & truly is a foodie paradise. Every evening, countless stalls come out and serve the hungry masses right on the side of the road. Wandering down Yaowarat street is a blessing for the senses as the air is filled with irresistible smells. Fresh seafood waits to be flash fried & wafting aromas of intense pork swirl around as the locals sit down & stuff their faces with Bangkok's finest. The street is lined with authentic Chinese restaurants that specialize in birds nest soup & shark fins! One pork stall lured me in & the busy tables confirmed my choice. Always eat at places that are busy. The specialty at this shack was kuay jab. This spicy noodle soup is truly an ode to the pig. I'm not sure exactly which parts I was eating - liver, kidney, intestines...but they were all delicious! Washed down with a fresh mango smoothie, it was a good start to the evening.

Everything Pig on Display

Yaowarat St - Chinatown

Flavor City

I just couldn't get enough of the pig because I came was still hungry and decided to get a plate of fried pork rice. I love the crispy bits of pork belly with the sweet sauce & a boiled egg! Always a winner.

The next day I headed out to the "Pumpkin Lady". This family run, neighborhood restaurant actually called Poisien off Victory Monument is legendary for whipping up consistently delicious Thai favorites. The two ladies running it were so welcoming & it really felt like home. I tried Penang Curry & Tom Yum Koong - both were the best versions of these Thai staples that I've had in the country. I've become accustomed to these flavors but they really pack a punch!

"Pumpkin Lady" - Legit Thai Food In a Family Joint

Penang Gai (Chicken)

Fiery & Delicious Tom Yum Soup

I went with my favorite Thai stir-fry that night for dinner at a local hole-in-the-wall. Pad Krapow Moo is my fallback option when I can't read the menu. We know it as stir-fried pork with Thai holy basil. Gotta get the Kai Dow (fried egg) added though!

Pad Krapow - Never Fails

No visit to Bangkok would be complete without a stop at Boat Noodle alley. This line of fast food noodle soup restaurants on the canal outside Victory Monument is always a memorable experience. The menu consists of about 15 kinds of noodle dishes with multiple options of noodle, meat and broth. The chefs whip the dishes together with production-line efficiency so the steaming bowls end up in front of you in a snap. I ended up mix and matching 6 different ones - why not at 10 baht a bowl? Fried pork rinds, wonton strips & fresh veggies garnish each one & I'm full before I know it. I'll miss this place dearly.

Production Line of Noodle Soup at Boat Noodle Alley

Good Stuff

6 Bowls Down...And I Wanted More

I wandered right into the Middle East at Sukhumvit Soi 3 to what's called the "Soi Arab" that evening. These series of streets don't feel like Thailand at all. Islamic food, culture & shopping galore. Ethnic restaurants line the streets in this authentic micro-neighborhood. All kinds of food is available from Ethiopian, Persian, Egyptian & Lebanese just to name a few. Expatriates & tourists from the Middle East congregate here, so you're more likely to find a woman covered from head to toe in black garb than a Thai "masseuse". It's a fascinating street to wander down flanked by sheesha bars & Arab men in ferrari shirts way too tight for their own good selling fake watches. I parked myself at Al Ferdoss - a Turkish, Lebanese restaurant and watched the end of the Thailand vs. China womens volleyball match along with 20 or 30 other locals. Ordered Mutton Biryani with a side of naan bread. It was amazing. Can't complain with fresh herbs, onion, lime and homemade pickles for garnish either! Thailand won in a massive upset too...the cherry on top.

Delicious Middle Eastern Cuisine at Al Ferdoss

Watching Volleyball

Little Arabia in the Center of Bangkok

When Jody arrived, we stayed at a lovely place called W Home which I highly recommend. The small, family run guesthouse is close by the Chao Phraya river in Bangkok's oldest neighborhood. That evening, we went to Asiatique - the new mall complex right on the water. Had some beers and people watched for a few hours before hopping into an Irish Pub for a taste of home. A lovely evening.

Just Chillin

Excellent Burgers & Steak at Flann O'Briens in Asiatique

Our last day in Bangkok consisted of a scenic & highly affordable boat ride on the Chao Praya express up the river. We took it as far as it went & got off in the last stop - Nonthaburi. It became immediately clear that not many foreigners visit this part of the city, but we felt at home because of our previous 10 months in country. We strolled through a massive market selling all kinds of seafood, animal parts, fruits & veggies and stopped at a hopping small joint that specialized in papaya salad & grilled chicken. The chicken was to-die-for and along with papaya salad and some delicious crab noodles, we were sufficiently stuffed.

Lots of People Eating = Good Sign

So Juicy & Tender - That Sauce was Killer Too

Cellophane Noodles & Fresh Crumbled Crab Meat

It's no wonder why I love this city more & more every time I visit. From the authentic, diverse neighborhoods, to the smiling, friendly locals, you're sure to find amazing food in the Asian metropolis that is Bangkok.

The Fighting Beetles - Chiang Rai's Beloved Soccer Team

Ever since we moved to Chiang Rai 11 months ago, we've been following the local soccer team here. We've always loved the sport and it's been a big part of our lives, so naturally we were intrigued when we found out that Chiang Rai had it's very own club. The Chiang Rai United Fighting Beetles play in the top league in Thailand & we have been so lucky to be able to experience the craze. We've been to top-level soccer games all over the world - Italy, England, Spain & Chile to name a few and now we can add another to the list - Thailand.

We were surprised to learn that the team is very new. The club was founded in 2009, so they've only been in existence for 4 years. That said, passion for the team is infectious. Orange billboards line the streets of the city with upcoming game info, jerseys are worn by men, women & children all over town not to mention the fact that it seems like every car has a fighting beetle bumper sticker. There's such excitement in this city over the team and it's addicting.

The United Stadium (about 20 minutes north of town by the airport) is undergoing an upgrade at the moment to increase capacity from 12,000 to 15,000. I guess there is too much demand! Despite the construction, the atmosphere is still incredible & the structure is impressive. The building has VIP lounges, big screen TV's & even state of the art fitness centers! Of course, the opposing fans have their own section of the stands (standard for soccer stadiums). We've sat in the VIP section smack dab in the middle of the field. Included in the price with these impressive seats (200 baht - $6.28) is a snack box complete with juice & pastries. We feel like royalty sitting right on the half line a stones throw away from the coaches & players.

The Crew

The Thai Premier League works like most European soccer leagues in that it's a promotion/relegation system. The worst 3 teams at the end of the year in the premier league get relegated to the 2nd division the following year. Similarly, the top 3 teams in the 2nd league get promoted and so on. So, teams constantly enter & exit the best league in the country which makes for competitive & varied games yearly. We've been to 3 games now and unfortunately have yet to witness a CR United victory. In fact, the beetles are really struggling this year and as I write this are in the relegation zone (bottom 3).

The Pride of CR

They played Muangthong United (Bangkok) a few weeks ago who are the equivalent of Manchester United in England. They're one of the richest clubs in the league & have won it 3 of the past 4 years. Needless to say, the atmosphere for that game was intense! The sideline ref made a bad call during the game and cups of beer rained down upon him! The game was stopped temporarily for a few minutes so the police could come out  & restore restore order. So crazy! During these games, fans of all ages yell like the referee's can hear them - which I find amusing. I remember there were 2 elderly ladies with little noisemakers that were just relentless all game long. The stadium was packed & we put up a good fight but ended up losing 2-1. I could tell some Muangthong players had reached celebrity status by the way the fans talked about some of them. Lots of their players also play on the Thailand National Team it turns out, so they really are national icons.

Muangthong United game (Check out their crazy British Coach)

I should speak to the quality of soccer that I've seen thus far although I'm definitely not the best judge of talent. I'd say that the Thai Premier League is somewhere in between the Collegiate & professional MLS level in America. Not quite up to America's best players, but not bad at all. The level of talent is actually higher than I was expecting to be honest. Still, I'd like to think that in my heyday (sans 3 knee surgeries) I could jump out on that field and hold my own, but we'll never know for sure :(

Nice Tats!

The last game we went to was against Osotspa FC (Saraburi Province) and it was memorable! We decided to get general admission tickets this time for a whopping 80 baht ($2.50) & sat behind the goal with all the locals. We met some Thai guys that were sitting in the crazy loud section and they invited us to watch the end of the game with them. We proceeded to yell, cheer & drink along with the rest of the die-hard fans. We took pride that fact & that we somewhat blended in with the gang despite being one of the few "foreigners" in attendance. Most of the chants aren't in Thai so we could follow along easy. They're usually something like "OLE OLE....OLE OLE..Chiang Rai United!" to the bang-bang of drums. One of the chants was a take on Lady Gaga's 'Bad Romance'....hilarious!!! Although communication was difficult, we shared a love of the game & Nu and Nui (as we later learned) were very proud to show us their culture - represented through sport.

Showing Support

Scarves Up!!!

You Win Some You Lose Some!!!

The Beetles are having a rough year this year but that doesn't phase the fans one bit! The final whistle blew and although the result was disappointing (0-3) I could have sworn that the team had just won! "Scarves Up!" as we say in Seattle. Brilliant red flares burst into flames all around us filling the air with smoke & the cheering turned up a notch. Both teams came over to our section after the match to pay their respects & salute and we did the same for them. We even had cheers specifically for the other team after the game! Such sportsmanship is unheard of in America! When we exited the stadium, we were confronted with a bunch of opposing fans hanging out in the parking lot. I was wary at first because you always hear about the violence & danger that results from soccer games in 3rd world countries. Not here! We proceeded to greet, bow & shake hands with the opposing fans. Nu even exchanged his jersey with an Osotspa fan. Such a great experience. It's really the way all sporting events should be. I realize that sometimes we take sports a bit too seriously & so it was refreshing for fans to treat each other & even the other team with such great respect. I can't help but relate it to certain sporting events back in the states where stupid fights break out every game & people end up getting hurt & even killed because of nothing essentially. There's a bigger picture here and the Thai people grasp it firmly.

My New Friends

These Chiang Rai United soccer games are experiences that we'll never forget. I love the passion & respect the Thai people show towards their team & the sport. Hopefully, the team can make a comeback this year and stay in the Premier League. Win or lose though, we're Beetle fans for life!

So Much Fun!

It's Not Rainy Season...It's FLOODING SEASON!!!

Weather in Chiang Rai has been absolutely nuts recently! Had to post some pics of the craziness we've been experiencing. It rains almost every day but usually only for a couple hours. This is no Seattle steady drizzle either. It downpours during big, violent thunderstorms. So exciting but it's causing some difficulties to daily life. The streets flood very quickly causing absolute chaos on the roads. I don't even bother driving the motorbike around because the water level is up to the engine! I've seen bikes stalled because Thai's have no fear of driving through lakes! Our power also cuts out frequently but this is to be expected in a local neighborhood. The locals are well prepared for these outages & utilize candles and alcohol to pass the time. Also, scores of bugs come out randomly. Sometimes, thousands of dragonflies fill the skies in plagues of bible proportions. The clouds fascinate me here. So many different shapes & colors in the sky every night. Makes for interesting sunsets. Also, sometimes there's an aurora-like splash of color in the sky during the day. I'm not sure how exactly this is created, but it's a strangely beautiful sight. I love the weather here...It's so exciting!

Storms A Comin

It's a Warzone Outside

Swimming in Our Street

Can't Believe Thais Drive Through This!

Water In Our Apartment

Yes I'm Wearing my Board Shorts

Buckets Of Rainwater

Bugs Everywhere!

Strange Color in the Skies

Gorgeous Sunsets :)

Kayaks & Caves

It's been 10 months now living in Northern Thailand. We've been all over the country from down south to secluded & not-so-secluded Thai islands, crazy weekends in bustling Bangkok & ancient Sukhothai in the stifling center of the country. Recently, we realized that we really haven't explored the North very much. We live in a beautiful, mountainous jungle environment that flourishes with life during the monsoon season. Needless to say, we wanted explore the region a bit more.

Most foreigners who visit Thailand split their time between 3 places: Bangkok for the lively heart of the country, Chiang Mai for a laid back, culture filled few days and some sand & sun time in the stunning islands. Those with a few more days in their vacations may head 4 hours north of Chiang Mai to the backpacker & party paradise that is Pai. We decided to head even further into the Mae Hong Son Province to the town of Soppong. Halfway Between Pai and Mae Hong Son, Soppong (or Pang Mapha in Thai) is a small market town known for hilltribes, outdoor activities & an abundance of natural treasures.

Our Jungle Bungalow

We heard in passing about this guesthouse in Soppong called Cave Lodge that came highly recommended. After further research & many more positive reviews, we had a final destination. Part of the adventure was just getting there! After a 3 hour bus from Chiang Rai to Chiang Mai, we hopped on a 5 hour cramped minivan that sped through lush jungle, over mountainous terrain & through mysterious mist & fog. Not the type of journey for the car sick, we flew around numerous hairpin turns & were grateful to finally be dropped off in the town of Soppong. Our first impression was of the "bus station" if you can call it that. It's basically a office with a woman at a computer who books minivans. Not a bus in sight! It turns out there are 2 buses that stop there each day so it's more of a roadside stand than a bus station. That said, we were determined to book our minivan back to Chiang Mai for a few days later. Much to our dismay, they were already all booked! Even in the middle of monsoon season where prices supposedly drop due to low tourist turnout, this route was packed. I think it's a reflection of the expansion that the country is experiencing. I'm not sure there is a "low season" anymore. Anyways, we only had one other option for the return - the local 6 hour bus. After accepting our fate, we wandered around the city in search of a motorbike taxi and the next leg of our travel. There were no taxis in sight so we talked some locals into driving us the 9KM to our guesthouse. 20 minutes later & lucky to be alive after a riding through muddy villages & flying up and down unpaved hills on the back of a speeding bike driven by a 15 year old, we were at the Cave Lodge!

Couch Made of Tires at Cave Lodge

This place was beautiful! A rustic, wooden jungle oasis right on a flowing Lang river, it's easy to see why people love it. We enjoyed our dinner in the laid back restaurant/lobby among the countless invisible bugs, birds & bats making their presence heard. Also, we checked out the treks on offer. The place has an amazing selection of kayaking, hiking & caving options. We just couldn't pass up kayaking through caves.

The next morning, we were stoked to get on the water. Unfortunately, the owner wouldn't let us kayak our own crafts due to the danger of the river this time of year. It had recently rained a lot so the water was very high and fast. We each had a local guide who steered while we paddled.  That was fine with us, because, as both of us have sea kayaked before, this was a river with some rapids, and the boats were a cross between a kayak and an inflatable raft.  Totally different ballgame!  A British family joined us on the trip & shared in the special experience. Zigging and zagging through jungle vegetation & between boulders, we came within sight of the highlight of the trip - Tham Lod Cave.

Entrance to Tham Lod

Into the Darkness

Entering the Cave

Considered one of Thailands most impressive caves, Tham Lod is over 1.5KM long and is a sight to behold with cathedral-like proportions. Into the unknown we went! With only our weak headlamps, our vision was extremely diminished. We had to rely on other senses. The musty, damp odor of old cave formation & bat residue, the tricking of the river below & rain dripping above & and the squeaking of thousands of bats blanked in darkness. I paddled aimlessly during 15 minutes of awesomeness! After making it through and stopping to admire the exit point (and the thousands of swifts overhead) we went off with one guide into the jungle in search of another cave.

Cave Exploring

Bats & Stalactites

We eventually came to another great limestone formation that had a small dark slit in the bottom. I didn't realize that we had to slip through this tiny space! It was a rough descent but we all made it into the cave and were promptly greeted by another world. Now, I haven't had much experience caving, so to me this place was astonishing. For the next 30 minutes, we wandered what seemed like miles into the nooks & crannies surrounded by ancient limestone formations. Stalactites & Stalagmites everywhere! The landscape really didn't seem earthly to me. We learned about the cave & it's formations, clumsily wandered around in the darkness & confronted bats & one HUGE spider. Very cool place.

Big Ol Cave Spider!

Jungle Woman

Back at the river, another guide took us up the stairs to the top of Tham Lod. There, the massive main cave opened up to us. The highlight of this cave was definitely the coffins. Over 1000 years ago, Chinese & Shan migrants placed their dead in large teak coffins & scattered them throughout the caves. A bit spooky to come across a crumbling coffin in complete darkness, but very interesting because scientists are still discovering & learning about these ancient coffins.

Old Teak Coffins

The sun came out and we were back on the river for a few more adventurous hours. The rapids were a bit rough in a few places and we could have easily capsized. Very refreshing & exhilarating. I felt like Indiana Jones floating past exotic wilderness, locals fishing & smiling hilltribe women. After lunch, we could see the skies darkening ahead. The inevitable occurred and soon, we were in the middle of a downpour! It was actually very fun to kayak through a rainstorm & we were laughing the entire time. Eventually, we came across a capsized tree that was blocking our path. After some debate, the guides decided to stop & carry the kayaks over the capsized tree! A memorable roadblock. After another hour, we were back on the way to the guesthouse with our caving and kayaking urge satisfied!

Exiting the Cave to Our Waiting Kayaks & Sunshine Before the Storm

That warm shower back in our room was heavenly and set the tone for our enjoyable evening. We spent hours drinking and eating with new friends - that British family we kayaked with, an adventurous Dutch couple & their 4 kids & even a few Americans!

Lovely Bus Back to Chiang Mai!

We were sad to leave the Cave Lodge but our trips are always limited by our schedules in Chiang Rai. We simply can't take week long trips and really explore more remote regions while we are living here. The 6 hour local bus was an experience. It was raining the majority of the time & our broken, rickety old bus chugged clumsily like the Little Engine That Could over the mountains. I felt like I could walk faster. We stopped briefly in Pai and I was so grateful we didn't spend our time there. Extremely annoying, entitled, European backpackers everywhere you look! Eventually, we made it to Chiang Mai, then back home. An enjoyable weekend in Northern Thailand and another experience cherished.