The history of Sri Lanka goes back a long ways - around 30,000 years ago when the island was first inhabited by prehistoric man. Throughout the centuries, powerful civilizations have risen to power & fallen just as quickly leaving behind remnants of a glorious past. Sri Lanka's cultural triangle situated in the center of the island is home to most of these World Heritage sites & the region became a must visit for us after a bit of research. We spent a total of 4 days exploring these incredible past kingdoms & were able to really reflect on the grandeur and influence that these ancient civilizations had and still have today.
We woke early, eager to tackle the second most ancient of Sri Lanka's capitals - Polonnaruwa. This city was first declared capital in the 11th Century AD when the Chola invaders were defeated to reunite the country under a local leader. For over 200 years, 3 kings reigned supreme over the island & brought great wealth & power to their people. Enclosed within three concentric walls, the city contained royal palaces, bathing ponds, monasteries and sacred architecture such as dagobas and image houses. The great man-made lake Parakrama Samudra greeted us upon arrival. Built in 1200, this massive lake provided the medieval city with water, cooling breezes, an additional line of defense & irrigation for over 90 square kilometers of paddy fields! In addition, the city itself remains one of the best planned archaeological sites in the country. Definitely a long standing testimony to the discipline & greatness of the kingdom's rulers.
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These Guys Were Everywhere! |
Despite being ravaged by invasion in the 13th century, Polonnaruwa's ruins remain remarkably well preserved. Stone reliefs remain extremely detailed, massive pagodas & stupas still stand erect & the structured city plans remain clearly visible. We strolled around the grounds in the oppressive heat, stumbled in and out of crumbling palaces & splendid Buddhist shrines while marveling at ornate statues and trying to imagine how glorious this civilization must have been at it's peak. Packs of wild monkeys went about their daily routine on the ancient stone structures with us.
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LOVED This Place! |
Among Polonnaruwa's highlights was the Vatadage (circular relic house) in the Terrace of the Tooth compound. Considered one of the most beautiful buildings in Sri Lanka, this incredible circular structure is a fantastic riot of artistry meant to house one of Sri Lanka's most sacred relics - Buddha's tooth. Almost every surface is carved in a melee of decoration without parallel. Four sets of steps lead up to the upper terrace, each one covered with masterpiece carvings of dwarfs, lions & makaras (Hindu mythical creature) & guarded by seated Buddha statues. At the base of the steps lies some of the best preserved moonstones in the entire country. These semi-circular stone slabs are only placed at the entrances to Buddhist temples and serve as doormats where people could wipe dirt from their feet before entering important buildings. Engraved on the moonstones are rows of detailed animals which embody the teachings of Buddhism. It was strange to walk over these beautiful carvings in part because in Thailand your feet are considered the dirtiest & lowliest part of the body and stepping over something important or beautiful is considered rude. Not so in Sri Lanka, so we stomped away!
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Nice Sandal Tan! |
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Jody Saying Hi To Mr. Buddha |
We gazed at the beautiful Gal Vihara or "Stone Shrine" which represents the pinnacle of Sri Lankan rock carving. Four Buddha statues in different postures are all carved from one massive slab of granite here. The consistency of the rock is flecked with natural black sediment giving it a wood-like appearance. The deities themselves are supremely graceful & serene in their poses & facial postures. Just fascinating to marvel at. It's easy to see why this is one of the most celebrated sights in Sri Lanka - there's just nothing like it that I've ever seen before!
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Awesome! |
There were plenty of massive stupas (dagobas) to gaze at. These huge structures housed relics & were built for worship. Image houses & flower alters are located around the circular foundation giving devotees a place to pray. We strolled around the wide sand terraces surrounding these stupas and marveled at how these incredible structures were constructed over a thousand years ago! Polonnaruwa was a fantastic introduction to Sri Lanka's Cultural Triangle & to top it off, we caught a glimpse of a wild elephant grazing in a pasture on the way back!
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Some Perspective |
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:) |
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Mom Finding Serenity After A Long Day at the Ruins |
We spent these evenings eating, drinking & conversing at our guesthouse. We sampled the drink of choice in Sri Lanka - Arrak. This spirit distilled from coconut has a rum-like sheen due to the addition of burned sugar. It's dangerous, strong & so cheap that most of the locals are in a state of perma-drunk - a serious problem in the country. It really didn't taste too good, but mixed with coke it was manageable & paired nicely with the bevy of Sri Lankan cuisine our hosts cooked for us every night. We shared our lodging with monkeys who woke us up in the morning with their scampering on our roof & praying mantis's who fluttered about in our open dining room while we ate. One evening, we strolled through a bustling local market & bought some presents while seeing what's on offer. The pungent smell of fermenting fish permeated the makeshift tent-city & loud yelps of market sellers pierced our ears. A memorable invasion of the senses.
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Enjoying the Local Market |
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Mom & Jody On a Pilgrimage to the Top of Mihintale |
Another early wake up the next day as we headed an hour north to the Mihintale temple & the first ancient capital of Sri Lanka - Anuradhapura. Mihintale isn't at the top of the guidebook list of places to visit, but I'm so glad we added it into our itinerary - it was a highlight! Believed to be the cradle of Buddhism in Sri Lanka, Mihintale is a mountain peak much frequented by locals as a pilgrimage site. We climbed the thousands of ancient steps along with locals & hoards of resident monkeys (2 species!) up to the sacred rock where the Buddhist monk Mahinda is believed to have descended from the sky to bring Buddhism to Sri Lanka for the first time in the 3rd Century BC! The ascent was a little stressful because of the height, the unstable iron railings & the barefoot climb around pilgrims; not to mention aggressive monkeys & jagged rocks surrounding us. We finally reached the apex & were rewarded with spectacular views of the fertile landscape below. The place did hold a sense of mysticism as Sri Lankans dressed in white prayed & chanted at the "sacred" peak. We marveled at the landscape & were startled when a vigorous toque macaque monkey (only found in Sri Lanka) leaped up the lamp-pole and sat at the top for an even greater view! This guy must have been the king of the monkeys because he proceeded to sit regally on the rock and look out over his Kingdom.
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Territorial Residents of Mihintale |
We strolled around the grounds for a few hours checking out the massive white Buddha statue, the families of gray langur monkeys playing all over the place & the giant stupa where the relics of Mahinda still reside. We absolutely loved Mihintale, but it was time to move on to our next supremely holy site of the day - the Sri Maha Bodhi tree.
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This is One Important Tree! |
Perhaps the most revered site in Sri Lanka's cultural triangle is the Sri Maha Bodhi - the sacred Bodhi tree in the first ancient capital of Anuradhapura. This ancient fig tree has been grown from a cutting of the original Bodhi tree in India under which Buddha attained enlightenment! It's the oldest documented tree in the world with a chronicled history since the time it was planted in 288 BC. The place was an absolute frenzy of devotees & priests worshipping & meditating while offering lotus flowers, fragrant incense & coconut oil lamps. Since we weren't Buddhist, we felt a little out of place & intimidated by this supremely sacred spot. We didn't have anything to offer & weren't dressed in pure white like the hundreds of devotees worshipping around us. Despite the chaos, the tree retained a sense of tranquility and peacefulness that made it special. It was something I'll never forget, and I think my Mom may have been tempted to convert to Buddhism after the experience.
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Offerings |
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More Stupas! |
The rest of the day we marveled at the ruins of the greatest kingdom in Sri Lankan history - Anuradhapura. This kingdom flourished for almost 1500 years from the 4th century BC up until the 10th Century AD when invasions from southern India moved the capital further south to Polonnaruwa. We stared in awe at more palaces, monasteries, monuments & even larger stupas! Jody and Mom offered some lotus flowers at the base of one along with the hundreds of Sri Lankans who were doing the same. Countless more monkeys greeted us at these ancient sites - a theme that followed us everywhere we went in Sri Lanka. Despite the old age of these ancient structures, we were able to get a sense of the majesty of the kingdom from the remaining ruins. It served as the political and religious capital of Ceylon (Old Sri Lanka) for over 10 centuries! Anuradhapura stands as a permanent manifesto of the culture of Sri Lanka, impervious to outside influence and is a must visit for any tourist.
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Ready to Climb Lions Rock - Entrance Through Ancient Gardens |
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Sigiriya's Gateway Amidst Lush Forest |
We were a little "ruined" out by this point, but we still had the most visited historic site in Sri Lanka to see the next day - Sigiriya or 'Lion Rock'. One of the best preserved examples of ancient urban planning, this aged palace is dominated by a massive column of rock nearly 700 feet high! Built in 495 AD, King Kasyapa built his palace on top of this rock for protection & superiority and decorated its sides with colorful frescoes. We approached through a series of elaborate gardens that run up to the foot of the rock. These gardens are considered one of the most important aspects of the site because they are among the oldest landscape gardens in the world! The water, cave & boulder gardens were terraced in a perfect geometric line leading up to the great rock.
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Admiring the Ancient & Beautiful Cave Paintings |
It was foggy the day we were there, so the top of the rock was shrouded in a eerie layer of invisibility. We started our ascent passing ancient rock shelters that indicate the area was occupied nearly five thousand years ago during the Mesolithic Period! Up and up we ascended on the stone stairway past caves where early Buddhist monks lived and worshipped to a gallery half way up the rock called the 'Mirror Wall'. Originally, this wall was so highly polished that the King could see himself while he walked alongside it. The wall is now partially covered with verses scribbled by visitors dating back to the 8th century. In essence, it's a very early graffiti wall! Continuing upward through a series of spiral staircases, we arrived at a naturally protected niche in the rock face where amazing frescoes were painted into the rock. Originally, these paintings would have covered most of the western face but over time with the elements, they became lost forever. The remaining paintings are considered unique in style & depict beautifully elaborate maidens which testify to the advanced Sinhalese civilization at a time when Europe was in the Dark Ages.
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At The Feet of the Great Lion |
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Final Ascent Into the Clouds & The Fortress |
Stumbling upward even more, we reached an ancient gateway built in the form of an enormous lion! Only the massive paws remain today, but they indicate how gigantic the rest of the carving must have been. We proceeded up a new metal stairway that would have taken us through the lion's mouth; up to the summit - hence Sigiriya's alternative name, "Lion Rock". I couldn't help but marvel at the incredible feat of construction. Without these modern staircases, we would have had to traverse straight up the vertical rock face! Apparently, small niches were carved into the rock for the ancient people to gain a foothold & ascend. After a harrowing hour climbing up the rock, we reached the summit ruins at last!
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Jody @ the Summit Enjoying the Royal Baths |
It's too bad visibility was poor on the day we went to Sigiriya because I'm sure the panoramic views would have been fantastic. Every once in a while, the fog would lift a little and we could catch a quick glimpse of the lush surroundings and the extremely well-reserved garden layout below. The top consisted of an complex of terraced palace ruins that must have been pure luxury back in the day! We marveled at what's left the ancient fortified palace and strolled around the remains of King Kasyapa's private bathing pool. The capital and royal palace were abandoned after the kings death yet the site was still used as a Buddhist monastery until the 14th century. The grandeur of this astonishing rock lives on & will continue to do so for centuries. It was a fantastically unique place & something I'll never forget. They say Sigiriya qualifies as the 8th wonder of the world - ranked closely with the Great Wall of China and the Taj Mahal...I have to agree.
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Happy Family After Conquering Lions Rock |
4 days in Sri Lanka's cultural triangle and we were exhausted! Time to move on to the next destination - Kandy.